It’s impossible not to be drawn in with the tantalizing words on a hand-drawn sign in front of 1983 Chinese Cuisine: “Come taste the authentic wok hei.”
Wok hei translates as “breath of the wok.” To those in the know, those magic words conjure the smoky, seared edges of noodles, proteins, vegetables, or whatever else comes into contact with the hot pan. It’s a calling card of excellent Cantonese cuisine — the food of the people from the southern Guangdong province — that gave birth to many American Chinese favorites.
Elsewhere, beef chow fun is often an eminently skippable gummy mess. At 1983 — named for the year the famous White Swan Hotel opened in Guangzhou — the dish is a standout. Composed of wide ribbons of al dente noodles, crisp bean sprouts, green onions, and velvety beef, it arrives in a nest of umami that balances earthy sesame with a hint of sweetness. And yes, the heat of the wok breathes charred life into every mouthful.
Dim sum is served until 4 p.m. every day. The white marble room is a refreshing leap from the red-and-gold dim sum palaces of yesteryear, and for those who like their brunch boozy, a towering bar dominates the view. The mirrored ceiling? That just helps you to enjoy the sight of your colorful, comfortably priced eats.
Highlights include steamed spareribs buried in the comforting flavor of garlic. For $12, diners are treated to a pair of lotus leaves wrapped around hefty portions of sticky rice. The grains absorb the woodsy flavor of the leaves, but also the rich brown sauce that dresses chicken, mushrooms, salted egg yolk, and Chinese sausage.
Well-crafted desserts are also worth a visit, especially swan-shaped crispy durian puffs. The birds’ chubby bodies are flaky, accordion-styled pastry bedecked with crisp sesame seeds. Bite in, and it oozes the creamy fruit, one of Asia’s most polarizing delicacies. Those who love it will be delighted. On an opening menu with close to 100 delicacies on offer, the promise of chow fun and durian is just the beginning.
1983 Chinese Cuisine: 1101 S. Joyce St., B26, Arlington
Feature photo by Michael Butcher
This story originally ran in our December issue. For more stories like this, subscribe to Northern Virginia Magazine.
