A moveable feast? How about a progressive meal throughout Northern Virginia? This list is created from among the hundreds of new and new-to-me dishes I sampled across our region this year. Starting with the best appetizer and ending with my favorite dessert, these select few are listed in the order in which I’d place them in a 10-course tasting, not in order of deliciousness.
Crispy bossam at Seoul Prime
Choosing the best appetizer I tasted this year wasn’t easy, but I knew it would be something from this Falls Church Korean steakhouse. The galbi-jjim risotto, an early frontrunner, is now on the entree menu. The heirloom tomato & burrata with kimchi vinaigrette is a stunner, but not ideal for the cold months. But any time of year, I am thrilled to dig into this skin-on, braised pork belly that’s sweet with pear and butternut squash. 106 Founders Ave., Falls Church
Goat cheese ravioli at Brasserie Royale
In too many cases, the barnyard-y zip of goat cheese has been left in the ’90s and early 2000s. I think it’s ready for a revival. This al dente pasta dish makes the most of that creamy tang thanks to its bath of golden tomato butter, as well as chopped chives and just enough lavender honey to make it sing. 46290 Cranston St., Sterling
Coiled eggplant at Lantern Restaurant & Bar
The restaurant and karaoke bar that I described as a “Tron-like digital dreamscape” is just as much an attraction for its Sichuan cuisine as its unusual ambience. The best dishes there combine the tingly heat known as mala for an experience that jolt a diner’s tastebuds awake. And this spiralized, sweet-and-sour eggplant dish ended up being my favorite leftover meal of the year. 320 23rd St. S., Retail G, Arlington
Tornado omurice at Izakaya Nana
Japanese comfort food in NoVA got a boost this year thanks to the opening of this visually impressive restaurant that’s modeled on the streets of Tokyo. This twirled omelet is filled with fried rice full of chunks of chicken, then presented in a sweet curry gravy. 13882 Metrotech Dr., Chantilly
Kotthu roti at Banana Leaf
I love chilaquiles. What does that have to do with the first Sri Lankan restaurant in NoVA? Kotthu roti is essentially the South Asian version thereof. A curry sauce dresses the mound of chopped flatbread that’s woven with eggs, vegetables, and your choice of meat. It may be utterly new to you, but it will nonetheless taste like home. 9686 Liberia Ave., Manassas
Beef chow fun at 1983 Chinese Cuisine
Most Chinese-American dishes descend from the food of the Guangdong province. This chic new restaurant in Arlington’s Westpost offers diners the flavors of the originals rather than our native copies. The charred edges of the noodles, the crisp bean sprouts, the soy-based sauce are simplicity itself. Here, they’re combined with such skill that you’ll dream of the beefy chow fun. 1101 South Joyce St., B26, Arlington
Fire-roasted duck breast at Harvey’s
Duck breast can give a critic a pretty fair read on a restaurant. Most chefs prepare that particular protein pretty poorly — either over or undercooked, with unrendered fat and flaccid skin. This wood-fired version ably reverses the trend. Just as good? The seasonal sauces that dress the already-flavorful cut. 513 W. Broad St., Ste. 130, Falls Church
Gyeran-jjim at Chosun Hwaro
As much as I enjoyed the feast of short ribs at this new Korean barbecue restaurant, the sides were standouts. The blistered corn cheese and the juicy mandu were also contenders for best dish. But the bubbling steamed egg here is so far beyond other versions in our region’s crowded field, I needed to recognize it. Expertly seasoned and topped with melted cheese, you might just ask for seconds. 10790 Fairgrounds Dr., Fairfax
Galette, Little Falls Café
What could be better than a sweet buckwheat crêpe? How about a savory one filled with local meat and produce? This summer, I dug into one made with fresh figs, salty prosciutto, and creamy Brie. Current menu options include one with pulled pork, roasted apples and white cheddar. And it’s served at perhaps the cutest new café in the region. 106 Little Falls St., Falls Church
Black Alaska at The Huntōn
Historic desserts like Baked Alaska don’t make it onto enough menus in this day and age. But an entire section of the bill of fare at The Huntōn is given over to exactly that kind of culinary heritage. The update of this meringue-coated concoction features a chewy brownie, absinthe ice cream, and ample panache. 208 S. King St., Leesburg
Feature image of goat cheese ravioli at Brasserie Royale by Michael Butcher
