With a wealth of northern Thai cuisine options in NoVA, many of us are well-steeped in dishes like tangy Esaan-style sausage and khao soi with its bird’s nest of crispy noodles on top. But ask about kanom jeen namya or moo hong and you’ll likely be greeted with a blank look.
Thanks to restaurateur Supisa “Boom” Teawbut, our familiarity with the home cooking of her native Surat Thani region, in Thailand’s south, is about to skyrocket.
Or perhaps we should thank her paternal grandma. Teawbut named her McLean restaurant, Sorn Thai Kitchen & Bar, after her.
Southern Hospitality
At the restaurant, Teawbut’s sister, Wym, lovingly recreates Sorn’s homey cuisine in modern ways. For example, that kanom jeen namya, a room-temperature fish curry that their grandmother made, is deconstructed with a pan-seared branzino filet sunken into its coconutty curry sauce.
Like most of the curries at Sorn, a hint of fermented shrimp paste adds an umami funk to the mix. A pile of vermicelli near the center of the plate is intended to be mixed with the sauce, as well as bean sprouts, pickled mustard greens, crunchy green beans, and half of a hard-boiled egg.
Though the dish is denoted with two out of three possible chiles on the menu, it errs more sweet than spicy — a disappointment for me that might be a boon to some. It’s possible that curries served “Thai hot” would alienate many diners, but I plan to ask for it next time I dine there. And there will be a next time.
The same trend is apparent in the pad kee mao, or drunken noodles. The broad, flat rice noodles are part of an unusually fresh bowl with outsized flavor, thanks to its garlicky sauce and vibrant ingredients like halved cherry tomatoes and Thai basil. But the dish’s signature burn is completely absent.
The Sorn’s Obsessions section of the menu is where most of the Surat Thani dishes reside. What the kua gling lacks of its promised three-chile spice, it makes up for with a wallop of curry flavor that includes more than its share of lemongrass and kaffir lime. I used lettuce leaves to pick up the pile of ground chicken and accompanying vegetables like a satisfying Thai sloppy joe.
Moo hong is a pork belly stew that’s accompanied by an inventive side of a fried bao bun, which separates easily to pick up chunks of the adipose meat and star anise–flavored sauce for a perfect bite. A prickly chile sauce waits on the side to add zingy heat to the otherwise mild dish. I loved the balance of the sweet-and-tangy sauce with the mouth-coating fat.
Enticing Flavors and Textures
As enticing as Sorn’s Obsessions are, there’s much more to explore. Thai curries and noodle dishes that have less of a geographical footprint are well-prepared, too. The memorably smoky pad thai tastes just off the streets of Bangkok. Its blend of scrambled egg; firm, red-tinted tofu; and choice of meat means there’s plenty of protein in the bowl, but it isn’t heavy — I could have eaten two servings if it weren’t for the rich curry that I tried along with it.
That was the green curry. Thick with coconut milk, it’s a beautiful marriage of colors and textures: soft purple eggplant, al dente red bell peppers, crisp bamboo shoots, and a protein (in my case, thinly sliced pork) with fresh basil. Those proteins include the usual — chicken, beef, shrimp, and tofu — but also a seafood blend. Vegetarians who cringe at the texture of tofu can also get vegetable-only versions of the curries, noodle dishes, and stir-fries.
Should you leave room for dessert, my favorite is the steamed brioche with pandan custard. The fluffy bread is soft, warm, and primed for dipping in the eggy, light-green concoction. Think of it as a slightly healthier doughnut.
Service is quietly exceptional at Sorn. Whether you’re at the window, enjoying a cocktail while you wait to be seated, or sitting down for a multicourse meal, the smiling staff is eager to meet your needs.
The clean look of the dining room is thanks to a collaboration between Teawbut and design firm 3877. “We want it green and minimalist,” says the restaurateur, who also owns Donsak Thai Restaurant in DC. “We want to make it homey, like you want to come to eat at your grandma’s house.”
It sounds like an exclusive invitation. And it is.
The restaurant is small, so make a reservation if you don’t want to hear profuse apologies for the wait. You’ll be treated to a meal that takes you across Thailand and into Sorn’s kitchen.
Sorn Thai Restaurant & Bar
Rating: ★★★ 1/2
See This: Jade-hued tile on the walls and the bar gives a fresh look to a dining room abuzz with guests.
Eat This: Pad thai, moo hong, steamed brioche with pandan custard
Appetizers: $7–$14
Entrées: $16–$28
Dessert: $7–$10
Open daily for lunch and dinner. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday.
Sorn Thai Restaurant & Bar, 6224E Dominion Dr., McLean
Feature image by Michael Butcher
This story originally ran in our August issue. For more stories like this, subscribe to Northern Virginia Magazine.
